Automotive and diesel
Starting and Charging Systems
A no-start is the battery, the starter or the charging system, and guessing wrong costs you the part and the tow both. We test the system before we sell you anything.
What it usually turns out to be
You do not need a diagnosis to call. Describe what it is doing and we will tell you whether it is a shop job.
It cranks slowly, and slower when it is cold
Usually the battery, but not always: a starter drawing more than it should looks identical from the driver's seat, and so does a bad cable or ground. We test the battery under load and measure what the starter actually draws, which separates the three.
One click, or a rapid clicking, and nothing turns
A single solid click usually points at the starter or its solenoid. Rapid clicking usually means not enough current, so battery or connections. Which of the two you hear is genuinely worth telling us on the phone.
The battery light comes on, or the lights dim at idle and brighten when you rev
Charging system. We test output at the alternator and at the battery, under load, and we check the belt and the connections. An alternator that reads fine at idle in the yard can still fall over with the headlights, the blower and the wipers all running.
It starts fine some days and not others
Intermittent no-start is usually a connection: a battery terminal, a ground strap, or a cable corroded inside the insulation where you cannot see it. Worth catching before it strands you, because it will eventually pick its moment.
You replaced the battery and it happened again
Then the battery was the symptom rather than the cause. Either something is draining it, or the charging system is not putting it back. Both are testable, and this is the point where testing saves you buying a third battery.
What we do
- Charging system testing
- Alternator replacement
- Battery testing and replacement
- Starter, solenoid, switch and cable service
- Drive belt replacement
- Complete rewire
- Trailer wiring, hookup and diagnosis
What we do not do here
- We test before we sell you anything. A battery, a starter and an alternator all present as a no-start, and replacing them in order until it goes away is an expensive way to diagnose.
- We are not naming battery brands or publishing a battery warranty period on this page. What goes in depends on the vehicle and on how you use it, and any warranty is the manufacturer's terms rather than a number we made up.
- We do not offer free battery testing. Some chain stores do, and if that is what you want it is a legitimate option. We would rather charge honestly for testing the whole system than give away the half of it that sells parts.
- We do not advise on towing capacity or wiring standards for a trailer setup. We will wire it correctly for what you have; how much you can safely pull comes from your vehicle's manufacturer.
Before you call, have this handy
None of it is required. It just gets you a real answer on the first call instead of the second.
What you hear when it will not start
Nothing at all, one click, rapid clicking, or slow cranking. These are four different problems and the sound is the fastest way to tell them apart.
How old the battery is, and whether anything was replaced already
Including if you did it yourself. If a new battery did not fix it, that is information rather than an embarrassment.
Whether it is worse cold, or after sitting
Cold points one way, sitting for days points at a drain, and both together point somewhere else again.
Questions
Questions we get asked
Is it the battery or the alternator?
That is exactly the question testing answers and guessing does not. Both present as a no-start, both can leave you stranded, and buying the wrong one costs you the part and possibly a tow as well.
Do you test batteries for free?
No, and we would rather be straight about it. Some chain stores do and that is a genuine option. What we charge for is testing the whole system, battery, starter, alternator and the cables between them, which is what actually tells you why it did not start.
My battery keeps going flat and the battery is new
Then something is draining it or the charging system is not replacing what you use. Both are findable. That is a parasitic draw test and it is on the electrical page as well, since the two overlap.
Can you wire my trailer?
Yes, including the connector and the controller side of it. If you are setting up towing generally, the hitch page covers the rest of it.
Should I carry a jump pack?
They are useful and we are not going to talk you out of one. Just do not let it turn an intermittent fault into a habit, because the thing making you jump-start it is still there and it will eventually pick a worse moment.
Talk to someone who works on these
Call the shop and we will tell you the soonest realistic date rather than book you and hold your rig. Mon-Fri 8:00 - 5:00, Saturday 8:00 - 12:00.